In a non-descript park at the outskirts of Khujand called Park Khujand Siti, we see a statue bearing testament to the prior glory of the Soviet Union. The statue represents Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov, better known as Lenin, in a glorious position, cap in hand and coat buttoned up as he triumphantly faces any storms which may try to dislodge him from his perch. Fortunately for him, he still stands on his perch. Unfortunately for him, his perch now resides in this out-of-the-way park.
On the 50th anniversary of Lenin’s death in 1974, Khujand (at that time still named Leninabad) erected a large statue of the former Soviet leader. At 24 meters high (statue and base combined), it is believed to be the largest in central Asia. It’s prominent location offered Lenin a commanding view from the top of a hill overlooking the left bank of the Syrdarya River. Fast forward many years and we see changes as the Soviet hold over this country loosens. In 1991, the city reverted back to its historic name: Khujand. 20 years later, in the dead of night with no fanfare and no public notice, the statue was removed and replaced by an even larger statue of Ismail Somoni, a ruler of the Persian dynasty which Tajikistan credits as their country’s founder.
Apparently due to a significant communist contingent or out of a perceived respect for mother Russia, it was deemed wiser to relocate the Lenin statue then to destroy it. You can find it in an out-of-the-way park on the north side of the Syrdarya river.
It would be easier to hire a taxi or a guide to get there. For those more adventurous, the nearest bus stop is “Ostanovka 18 M-R Arka”.
Why go?
- Lenin is a large part of the political history of Russia and her neighboring countries. Whatever you think of him and his actions, you can’t separate him from the history of this region.
- The cast aluminum statue with its stark simplicity holds it’s own artistic appeal.
- Frankly, there are limited options to see and do as a visitor to Khujand. If you have the time, this should be on your list.
What you need to know:
- Khujand is the second largest city in Tajikistan with 163,000 inhabitants.
- Khujand sits on the historic Silk Road.
- The park where the status is located is sometimes referred to as Park Khujand Siti and sometimes as Victory Park.
- Cows wander through the park, so watch your step (for the “gifts” they may leave behind).
- There is a boat rental facility next to it on the river, in case you want to add some additional activity to your visit.