Buenos Aires is a vibrant mix of old European charm and flashy latin appeal.
It is large enough to contain many different unique neighborhoods, so it can hold your interest for more than just a weekend (especially when you throw in a day trip to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay).

I based my stay in the old center, near the Obelisk, Avenue Florida, and Casa Rosada, but using the HOHO (Hop on/Hop off) bus stretched my reach much further afield.

BA is very easy to get around, given the wide, pedestrian friendly avenues, extensive subway map, and cheap taxi and Ubers. I spend a lot of time walking because I see much more that way, and I can stop whenever I want to spend more time with new discoveries.

Of note: there seems to be more crime in BA then in most European cities. I was not affected, but the police presence throughout the city is substantial, with officers stationed every block or two downtown. I generally walk with my iPad in hand to help me navigate new cities, and on three separate occasions I was advised by helpful citizens that I shouldn’t do that. It gave me pause, since I never felt in any danger, and I think I have an acute sense of it, given my many travels. So it made me wonder if I was just being naive. I kept a little better watch of my surroundings, perhaps, but I didn’t change my ways.

Unlike many of my trips, I didn’t have my itinerary completely planned before I left. In fact, the only thing pre-arranged was my day trip to Uruguay. But I quickly booked the Teatro Colón tour on my first day, to make sure not to miss it. The rest of the trip was opportunistic, using the HOHO bus and jumping off where my fancy led me.

My highlights included learning a few tango steps from a street tango troupe, paying my respects to Evita (surrounded by amazing statues and mausoleums), the Teatro Colón, the Feria de San Telmo (a Sunday market with hundreds of stalls spread along the coble stone streets of San Telmo), sitting to dinner with a lovely couple who invited me to join them, and colorful La Boca.

 

Where you pick your hotel is less important if you are going to use the HOHO bus. Since the three tours cover so much of the city, you can jump on from almost anywhere.


 

Why Go?Why go?

  • You’ve done all of the major European cities, and are looking from something new along the same lines.  In fact, the majority of locals in BA can trace their heritage back to Europe.
  • You’d like to find a place with enough to do to hold your interest for more than a weekend, while staying in the same hotel/location.
  • You understand Spanish, and want another location to practice.  But in BA, it is called Castellano, and will sound different from what you’re used to.
  • You like steak.  They have steak.  They have good steak!
  • You’ve seen Evita, and want to pay homage.
  • You’re looking to be psychoanalyzed. They claim to have more psychiatrists per person than any city in the world.

 

What you need to know:

  • Buenos Aires time is GMT-3, so essentially one hour ahead of EST
  • Mate “Drink of the Gods” is almost sacred in Argentina.  It traditionally comes in a carved out gourd with a silver straw sticking out.
  • Uber is alive and well in BA, and incredibly cheap.
  • Be careful about your belongings, especially electronics.  I didn’t see any thefts myself, but I was warned on multiple occasions.
  • You restaurant bill may include a small charge for bread and cutlery (cubierto) and for your glass of water.
  • People stay out late in BA.  The locals go out to eat between 8 and 11pm.
  • If you are in town on Sunday, don’t miss the San Telmo Market: with streets and streets of vendors.  It’s also a great place to people watch.  But be careful of pickpockets.
  • Check out the exchange rate before you go.  The economy is volatile, and the exchange rate can vary significantly from day to day.  You can bring cash from home and exchange it when you get there.

 

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1 COMMENT

  1. Tango in a German – looking hat. Where did you get that gorgeous dame. Weather looks good. Have fun.

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