Guadalcanal Memorial

Early morning wake up and ride to the airport in Port Moresby for my flight to the Solomon Islands.  Easy check-in, kind of boring conversation with a Kiwi pilot, and then waiting for my flight.  That’s when I realized that my boarding pass said gate 2, and the monitors said gate 4.  Two people confirmed that gate 2 was correct.  Any guesses on which of the two it turned out to be?  Ah… it’s a trick question, because the final gate was 3.

Two hour flight from Papua New Guinea and I’m on Guadalcanal… yes, *that* Guadalcanal.  It’s the name of an island upon which lies the capitol of the Solomon Islands.  During WWII it was a major battle ground between the allied forces and the Japanese.  There are a few relics left from the war, and the US built a memorial honoring those who died (at least those on the side that won).  There is a Japanese Peace Memorial just minutes away.

I arrived at my hotel: the Coral Sea Resort and Casino, checked in and then borrowed a bike to ride around.  Following a map, I rode to the memorial.  I turned off the main road at a round-about and approached a hill with a 90 degree upward grade (which was *not* indicated on the map).  Seriously, how do they expect a tired traveler to ride a bike in 200 degree weather going straight up?  Note: some of these details may not have been verified.

The memorial is simple but poignant.  As with many sites of war, it is difficult to imagine that this island hosted such slaughter.  I don’t know enough about the war, nor the Pacific Theatre to offer any insights or judgements, but I couldn’t help to feel sad for all of those from both sides who found themselves thousands of miles from home, with colleagues they barely knew, trying to kill people they had never even met, wondering constantly if this was going to be their last day on earth.  Fast forward 76 years and there is little left of those events.  If you are able to overlook the obvious poverty, you would see lush greens, tall mountains, a bucolic coastline and a sun so hot it could boil the milk inside a coconut in the shade of a slightly leaning palm tree with fronds gently fluttering in the breeze.  Mercifully, by late afternoon, the sun lost its murderous rage and I enjoyed a swim.

Dinner was a crumb covered fish dish and a jug of limeade.  You gotta stay hydrated.

 

The national language is Pidgin English, an abbreviated form of English which doesn’t identify time (past/present/future).  It’s difficult to understand audibly, but you can often decipher the meaning in written signs.  For instance: “Triem Solrais en Tingim why iu lavem!” = “Try Solrais an <see> why you love em!”

 


 

Why Go?Why go?

  • As with many islands in this part of the world, the Solomon Islands offer some wonderful scuba diving and birding opportunities.
  • Hike some spectacular trails.

 

What you need to know:

  • Bring a power adapter.  This country as a fairly unique power plug.  It looks like this: / \
  • Bring a bathing suit. Most activities involve the water.
  • If you are interested in WWII, you may want to read up on Guadalcanal before you come.
  • The WWII memorial is worth a visit, certainly if you are interested in the war; but even if you are not, it offers a great view of the surrounding area and the coastline of Guadalcanal island.
  • A bike is an OK way to get around Guadalcanal. Check if your hotel has them.  The Coral Sea Resort and Casino has them available at no charge.
  • The beaches are north of town.
  • The Central Market is closed on Sunday. Actually, most stores are closed on Sunday.  A result of the major religion being Christian.  Those stores which *are* open on Sunday will most likely be run by a Chinese proprietor.
  • The national language is Pidgin English. Sound out the written signs and you will probably understand much of it.
  • There is one major road that runs through the city of Honaria. It gets *very* busy during rush hour, so plan accordingly, especially on your way to the airport.
  • More information about the Guadalcanal Memorial: https://www.abmc.gov/cemeteries-memorials/pacific/guadalcanal-memorial

 

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